Diet

Lots of soft hay/ dried grasses should be at least 80% of their feed.
Dry food should be a properly balanced feed but on its own isn't ideal and can be fattening.
> For pregnant and lactating sows offer slightly higher calcium rich veg  (spinach and kale) and veg high in vitamin C (peppers, fresh grass, dandelions, parsley, coriander other herbs, broccoli, various green leaves)
Only offer a very small quantity of wet food like cucumber or any lettuce.
> A not uncommon complication during pregnancy or the first week after birth is toxaemia and this is often lethal. Caused usually by a lack of appetite or lack of movement in the last few weeks of pregnancy which puts them into ketosis due to a lack of sugar. Occasionally it might be an hereditary condition in the sows where they do not have properly developed blood vessels in the uterus.
Note this can also occur in overweight Guinea Pigs of either sex.

Helpful hints for pregnant sows:
>Offer a small slice of banana including the skin, apple (no pips) a grape, melon etc every other day. 
However, please do not overdo the sugary fruits otherwise this could lead to bloat which is often fast and lethal 
>A good supplement to have on standby is liquid Osteocare (1ml approx. 3-4 times a week if the sow has a large litter or looks to be struggling) 
> I keep frozen full fat goats milk in the freezer using the bags you can make ice cubes in. If the mother is struggling to feed or the mum has died it is the next best alternative. The babies will lap it from a teaspoon to start with, then soon realize when you put it in a shallow container/saucer. I often mix some up warm with bran. 

​Hemmed ears.
Whilst this is considered a fault in showing it is not an issue for your pet Guinea Pig. It is believed to be hereditary so do not use one exhibiting this fault if you are breeding to show!

Breeding Guinea pigs.

Like any other type of animal breeding it should be carefully considered as with all animals there are things that can go drastically wrong. Can you afford an emergency or weekend vet fee should be paramount in your thoughts.
Important factors to consider for the sow;
> Age. Ideal between 8 and 14 months.
> Weight. She should weigh at least 800 grams.
​>Health and condition, as a sickly sow will have many problems in both her pregnancy and birthing if she is in a poor condition.
> The lethal gene. Some can be a 'hidden' roan, especially if showing a lot of white in their coat.
> Older sows struggle with a first litter. Whilst the 'fused pelvis' is nonsense they do become less elastic.
​Further reading below;

interpubic_joint.pdf
File Size:	393 kb
File Type:	pdf

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 Sows are pregnant for around 65-72 days. They come in to season about every 16-23 days, so unless you see them mating assume it could be anytime.
> Remove the boar after 6 weeks by which time you could see the sow becoming heavier.
> The sow once given birth will come back into heat 15 hours after giving birth.
This is called postpartum oestrus which means that whilst they are nursing a litter they will mate again.
Litters can range from 1-8 pups, but 3 or 4 is normal.
As Guinea Pigs are prey animals and they don't live or birth in a burrow, so the pups are born, dried off and able to move around in less than 20 minutes. They are mini adults in appearance.
They rely on their mothers milk for two weeks but start eating solids after two days. Although you may see them nibbling on veg after just a couple of hours.
The pups can easily be sexed from birth, but leave them alone for a few hours at least!
Baby boars should ideally be separated after three weeks of age as they are capable of reproducing this young. 
​The young boars can be housed together in another hutch or bonded with their father if he is amenable (watch them interact for a while) 
​Below is a useful link from the RVC about hand rearing babies.

guinea-pig-hand-rearing-guide-rvc-march2020.pdf
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Useful links

avygenetics.com/wp-content/uploads/Cavy-Genotypes.pdf 
This site seems very comprehensive. I have tried numerous times to contact the author to no avail. However, as she, Amber Wiseman, states in her post script it is free to share for educational purposes.
I hope if any one knows her please pass along my thanks. This is an American site so some colours are not named the same s the UK. Even the European exhibitors have different names for some colours.

BCC will explain breeds and colours and useful info.
www.britishcavycouncil.org.uk/

​​The link below takes you to a PDF with lots of useful and interesting colour info.
​https://britishcavycouncil.org.uk/Resources/Cavy%20Genetics%20Article%20October%202008%20rev%20A.

​A useful medical & care guide. They also have a forum.
https://www.guinealynx.info/sitemap.html

Eye Colour the P locus.

This is as much for my benefit as anyone else's!
The pink eye gene affects coat colour also.
In order of dominance;
P = normal eye colour and coat colour (black BB and chocolate bb)
pg (grey) = dilutes black coat by approx. 50% to grey and produces a ruby cast to the eye (black becomes slate and chocolate becomes caramel).
p = pink eye dilution further dilutes black by approx. 80% (black becomes lilac and chocolate becomes beige)
The ruby cast to some dark-eyed cavies can be caused by any of several dilution genes = Pp, genotypes Bb or bb or any visible or hidden cr.  

The C & E Locus

The different alleles of the C series affect the colour dilution.
C is full colour, no dilution on either black or red.
cd is light dilution. Black slightly but red is diluted to buff  (possible slight eye ruby cast)
cdch creates cream.
cr is ruby eye dilution. Red coat is diluted to white - DE White, a golden agouti becomes a silver agouti. Black barely diluted. Very dark ruby eyes.
ch (Himi*) Stops all red but as with the rabbits the black is temperature sensitive. chch = PE White
crch = sable

E is the Extension gene either allows or suppresses the black pigment (so allows red to show through)
E allows black throughout the coat.
ep is partial expression of the black in marked varieties like tortoiseshell and brindle (black and red patches).
e is non extension and only allows a small amount of black.
Himi* carry EE which allows the extension points.


Note! I Need to make sense of the sable gene. Black sable aaBBcrca (where ca is Himalayan)EEPP
crch black, lilac, beige, silver fox, silver agouti, magpie, cali..born lighter cdch = sepia. Cali markings will disappear on sables. cdca? sable is pointed sepia - darker tip to hair....


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