HEALTH
Prevention is better than cure and good husbandry and diet will prevent a multitude of ailments, from teeth to anus. Boredom can lead to stress which will leave a rabbit vulnerable to other ailments. There are some diseases for which vacinations are available.
Chin (double) aka the dewlap
There are many misconceptions about what the double chin properly named a dewlap is designed for. The answer is nothing! The dewlap is a build up of fat.
It can indicate your doe (or buck) is overweight. A small dewlap shouldn't be cause for concern, so long as it doesn't get bigger. Rabbits can develop skin problems (moist dermatitis) and be prevented from keeping themselves clean and coprophagy (eating their poops) Fat rabbits with large dewlaps can develop fur mats that trap urine or faeces, get sores and fly strike.
Like many species neutering can affect weight, pretty much like middle age spread in humans! Consider their diet.. the dry feed.. is it high enough in fibre and low in protein? Reduce sugary feed like fruit and carrots. Increase hay etc.
Rabbits can lose the dewlap if you feed the correct diet and ensure they have plenty of exercise. However if it has become very large even dieting may not reduce the stretched skin. Surgery can be performed to remove the excess fat and/or skin if required.
Dewlaps are not designed for any purpose.. although people assume it is for when they nest build but that is where they would pull fur from anyway as well as the belly/legs etc. The build up of fat may be useful if they have a large litter and don't have enough feed to produce milk, pretty much like us only getting one small meal a day but needing to breastfeed our baby and maintain ourselves.
It can indicate your doe (or buck) is overweight. A small dewlap shouldn't be cause for concern, so long as it doesn't get bigger. Rabbits can develop skin problems (moist dermatitis) and be prevented from keeping themselves clean and coprophagy (eating their poops) Fat rabbits with large dewlaps can develop fur mats that trap urine or faeces, get sores and fly strike.
Like many species neutering can affect weight, pretty much like middle age spread in humans! Consider their diet.. the dry feed.. is it high enough in fibre and low in protein? Reduce sugary feed like fruit and carrots. Increase hay etc.
Rabbits can lose the dewlap if you feed the correct diet and ensure they have plenty of exercise. However if it has become very large even dieting may not reduce the stretched skin. Surgery can be performed to remove the excess fat and/or skin if required.
Dewlaps are not designed for any purpose.. although people assume it is for when they nest build but that is where they would pull fur from anyway as well as the belly/legs etc. The build up of fat may be useful if they have a large litter and don't have enough feed to produce milk, pretty much like us only getting one small meal a day but needing to breastfeed our baby and maintain ourselves.
Constipation/ Diarrhoea
Constipation, diarrhoea and bloating can be caused by inappropriate diet (low in fibre high in carbohydrates) stress, or parasites. Rabbits must not become dehydrated as once this happens things can go down hill very quickly. Which ever symptom is exhibited veterinary advice should be sought immediately just to be on the safe side.
Coccidiosis
Coccidiosis is a highly contagious and aggressive parasitic infection of which there are nine species that affect rabbits, eight of which affect the intestine the other one the liver. It is spread by the rabbit consuming the eggs or Oocysts of the parasite from another infected rabbit. The oocysts can remain active for a year, so the importance of good hutch sanitation is vital.
Symptoms of Intestinal cocci can include reduced appetite, loss of weight, depression, rough coat, abdominal pain, pale, watery and mucus faeces. In serious cases death, growth retardation and paralysis can occur. Treatment with Harkers or Easicox (both contain Amprolium hydrochloride)
Even after treatment rabbits can still be carriers and can have relapses.
Liver coccidiosis usually affects the young to yearling rabbit, symptoms are a lack of normal growth, bloated tummies and sometimes a slight persistent diarrhoea. Liver/Hepatic cocci needs to be treated with MegaCox which will also treat intestinal (contains Diclazuril)
Adult rabbits are sometimes passive carriers of coccidiosis without showing any symptoms themselves. The simple fact is that treatment may not kill all of the Coccidia oocysts. A certain number of them can burrow into the lining of the intestines and go dormant for years. It is virtually impossible to kill them when they are encysted in the lining of the intestines. Therefore, during times of stress, the oocysts may re-activate and start to reproduce, causing another outbreak. The amount of stress needed to cause a flare is variable from one individual to another. For example for some a simple car journey or change of owner may be enough.
It is worth noting that young rabbits are the most susceptible, especially from when they about 2 to 3 weeks old and start to consume their mothers caecal matter who may be infected herself. Symptoms are manifested in kits any time from 3 weeks onwards once they are being weaned. The diarrhoea has a distinct odour that once smelt is never forgotten.
I strongly suggest adding a quality pro-biotic such as Avipro Plus to their drinking water, doing so will assist the young ones immunity at such a stressful time.
As a preventative to assist keeping the levels of infestation low (it is never totally eradicated) it is suggested to treat twice yearly in the Spring and Autumn. Make up a mix and distribute a few inches of this in to each bottle. Once drunk replenish with fresh water or if you fill the drinking bottle discard any left in the bottles after 24 hours as it does not remain stable.
TIP! REMOVE/EMPTY THE DRINKING BOTTLE OR BOWL THE NIGHT BEFORE. This will encourage the rabbits to drink the following day with the treatment in.
Treatment: Add 5ml to 5 litres of drinking water each day for 5 days. Stop for 10 days and repeat dose for a further 5 days.
Prevention: As above but at the rate of 2.5ml per 5 litres of drinking water.
An alternate with Megacox to avoid resistance occurring.
MegaCox effective coccidiosis treatment for racing pigeons.
Directions for use: Mix 100ml with 4L of water. Use for 24 hours.
Some will feed their rabbits with 'medicated' feed that contains an Coccidiostat. I am not sure how effective it is, but I do know stories of people that have purchased rabbits fed this way and once changed over to another feed have shown cocci symptoms and sometimes died.
Jeyes fluid is said to kill the oocysts, using at 1 part Jeyes to 80 parts water, however you must allow the hutch to thoroughly dry if using this product. There are other disinfectants on the market but they must be able to destroy oocysts otherwise are useless.
Symptoms of Intestinal cocci can include reduced appetite, loss of weight, depression, rough coat, abdominal pain, pale, watery and mucus faeces. In serious cases death, growth retardation and paralysis can occur. Treatment with Harkers or Easicox (both contain Amprolium hydrochloride)
Even after treatment rabbits can still be carriers and can have relapses.
Liver coccidiosis usually affects the young to yearling rabbit, symptoms are a lack of normal growth, bloated tummies and sometimes a slight persistent diarrhoea. Liver/Hepatic cocci needs to be treated with MegaCox which will also treat intestinal (contains Diclazuril)
Adult rabbits are sometimes passive carriers of coccidiosis without showing any symptoms themselves. The simple fact is that treatment may not kill all of the Coccidia oocysts. A certain number of them can burrow into the lining of the intestines and go dormant for years. It is virtually impossible to kill them when they are encysted in the lining of the intestines. Therefore, during times of stress, the oocysts may re-activate and start to reproduce, causing another outbreak. The amount of stress needed to cause a flare is variable from one individual to another. For example for some a simple car journey or change of owner may be enough.
It is worth noting that young rabbits are the most susceptible, especially from when they about 2 to 3 weeks old and start to consume their mothers caecal matter who may be infected herself. Symptoms are manifested in kits any time from 3 weeks onwards once they are being weaned. The diarrhoea has a distinct odour that once smelt is never forgotten.
I strongly suggest adding a quality pro-biotic such as Avipro Plus to their drinking water, doing so will assist the young ones immunity at such a stressful time.
As a preventative to assist keeping the levels of infestation low (it is never totally eradicated) it is suggested to treat twice yearly in the Spring and Autumn. Make up a mix and distribute a few inches of this in to each bottle. Once drunk replenish with fresh water or if you fill the drinking bottle discard any left in the bottles after 24 hours as it does not remain stable.
TIP! REMOVE/EMPTY THE DRINKING BOTTLE OR BOWL THE NIGHT BEFORE. This will encourage the rabbits to drink the following day with the treatment in.
Treatment: Add 5ml to 5 litres of drinking water each day for 5 days. Stop for 10 days and repeat dose for a further 5 days.
Prevention: As above but at the rate of 2.5ml per 5 litres of drinking water.
An alternate with Megacox to avoid resistance occurring.
MegaCox effective coccidiosis treatment for racing pigeons.
Directions for use: Mix 100ml with 4L of water. Use for 24 hours.
Some will feed their rabbits with 'medicated' feed that contains an Coccidiostat. I am not sure how effective it is, but I do know stories of people that have purchased rabbits fed this way and once changed over to another feed have shown cocci symptoms and sometimes died.
Jeyes fluid is said to kill the oocysts, using at 1 part Jeyes to 80 parts water, however you must allow the hutch to thoroughly dry if using this product. There are other disinfectants on the market but they must be able to destroy oocysts otherwise are useless.
Mucoid Enteropathy
This is another diarrhoeal complex. ME for short, usually affects the young who are raised on a high carbohydrate, low fibre diet. Initially one would notice a slight listlessness, lack of appetite combined with an insatiable thirst. Within 12-48 hours the young rabbit will become very weak and pass a clear, jellylike substance. If palpated, some rabbits will have a distended and doughy to hard caecum. There can also be heard a sound from their abdomen like a half full Thermos.
Dehydration is the killer, fluids given subcutaneously offer the best method of re-hydration and only offering a high fibre feed may help, however the chance of recovery is low, death follows very swiftly.
Dehydration is the killer, fluids given subcutaneously offer the best method of re-hydration and only offering a high fibre feed may help, however the chance of recovery is low, death follows very swiftly.
Enterotoxemia
A severe form of diarrhoea with symptoms of oozing diarrhoea and depression which can affect any age. It is caused by a toxin released by a bacterium called Clostridium spiroforme. This is not a transmittable disease, but has a low recovery rate.
C. spiroforme is a normal inhabitant of the caecum, a member of the caecal flora, and it is well-regulated by the growth of other normal flora until a larger amount of nutrients unused by other bacteria becomes available. When this occurs, C. spiroforme initiates a population explosion, and, in the presence of glucose, begins to release its deadly chemical toxin.
C. spiroforme is a normal inhabitant of the caecum, a member of the caecal flora, and it is well-regulated by the growth of other normal flora until a larger amount of nutrients unused by other bacteria becomes available. When this occurs, C. spiroforme initiates a population explosion, and, in the presence of glucose, begins to release its deadly chemical toxin.
Tyzzer’s disease
A contagious bacterial disease, caused by Clostridium piliforme is characterized by profuse watery diarrhoea, anorexia, dehydration and lethargy. Death occurs within 1-3 days in rabbits 6-12 weeks old. Acute outbreaks have been associated with up to 90% mortality. Infection occurs by ingestion and is associated with poor sanitation and stress. Thorough disinfection of the housing with household bleach is recommended.
Colibacillosis
Two types of Colibacillosis are seen in rabbits.It is not uncommon for entire litters to succumb to this disease.
Lawsonia intracellularis
Lawsonia intracellularis has been reported to cause diarrhoea in weaning rabbits. Symptoms include diarrhoea, depression, and dehydration, which resolve over 1-2 weeks. Disease does not cause death unless associated with another infection.
GI Stasis
We can't stress enough the importance of hay/straw. Hay moves along everything in the digestive tract at the right pace. Too many carbohydrates in the diet and hair from grooming are the main culprits. If the Gastro-Intestinal (GI) tract does not move along at the right pace then it starts to slow down causing GI stasis. You will notice that the rabbit is eating and drinking less as they feel full which causes the matter in the GI tract to become further impacted. The stomach may look bloated due to a build up of gas. It is extremely painful and if left untreated the rabbit will die from starvation.
Hairball tonics may hinder the movement of any impaction (compacted food/hair) in the GI tract. These remedies basically coat the impacted matter in an oil, which may mean any ORT you have administered will pass by and not hydrate. A safer alternative might be pineapple enzyme in the form of Bromelain, which aides digestion but is also reported to break down blockages caused by fur.
A visit to the vet is IMPERATIVE in such instances as listed above. A rabbit (particularly I have found the mini lop) have sensitive stomachs and these symptoms are LIFE THREATENING. Keeping a daily watch over what your rabbit has eaten and its caecal droppings are the best and earliest indicators. Also teeth grinding may indicate a problem.As a standby it is useful to have some of these items in your rabbit first aid kit to make up for a quick fix oral rehydration.
Syringe
500ml water
4 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Some suggest adding 1/2 teaspoon baking soda as they believe the stomach is higher in acid when the rabbit is sick.
We strongly advocate the use of probiotics, Avipro being a excellent choice.Calpol for pain relief and Calfig to help loosen the blockage are useful as is Slipery Elm to encourage appetite.
As well as rehydrating the rabbit you need to get the gut moving again. Possible suggestions are a mixture of equal parts of pineapple juice, the treated water and baby vegetable food.
Remember if syringing in to the rabbits mouth, to do it in to the cheek and never straight in to the mouth as you will choke it.
Hairball tonics may hinder the movement of any impaction (compacted food/hair) in the GI tract. These remedies basically coat the impacted matter in an oil, which may mean any ORT you have administered will pass by and not hydrate. A safer alternative might be pineapple enzyme in the form of Bromelain, which aides digestion but is also reported to break down blockages caused by fur.
A visit to the vet is IMPERATIVE in such instances as listed above. A rabbit (particularly I have found the mini lop) have sensitive stomachs and these symptoms are LIFE THREATENING. Keeping a daily watch over what your rabbit has eaten and its caecal droppings are the best and earliest indicators. Also teeth grinding may indicate a problem.As a standby it is useful to have some of these items in your rabbit first aid kit to make up for a quick fix oral rehydration.
Syringe
500ml water
4 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Some suggest adding 1/2 teaspoon baking soda as they believe the stomach is higher in acid when the rabbit is sick.
We strongly advocate the use of probiotics, Avipro being a excellent choice.Calpol for pain relief and Calfig to help loosen the blockage are useful as is Slipery Elm to encourage appetite.
As well as rehydrating the rabbit you need to get the gut moving again. Possible suggestions are a mixture of equal parts of pineapple juice, the treated water and baby vegetable food.
Remember if syringing in to the rabbits mouth, to do it in to the cheek and never straight in to the mouth as you will choke it.
The Midnight Feast (Coprophagy)
A word of warning . . . never let your rabbit get fat! Often rabbits become overweight through being fed incorrectly or being allowed to pick out the feed they like and leaving the nutritionally balanced pellets uneaten.
An overweight rabbit can not reach its anus and this is bad news because it will not be gaining the nutrients required through the process of copography. They will start to lack certain vitamins such a K and many of the B group.
Coprophagy is required as the food is not entirely digested the first time it passes through the digestive tract, therefore many nutrients are not absorbed. So, just as it leaves the body the rabbit will re-ingest the caecotrophs (the soft droppings) which will then pass through the digestive tract a second time for any remaining goodness to be absorbed.
Finally being passed out as the faecal droppings we are all more familiar with, which are dry, hard and round. People do not very often see coprophagy as it usually takes place at night. The first partly digested caecotrophs resembles a small bunch of soft chocolate coloured grapes covered in a mucous that prevents the stomach acids from damaging the nutrients until it reaches the small intestine.
It is worth mentioning that a kit doesn't produce its own caecotrophs until it is about 3 weeks old, but comsumes it mothers from about 2 weeks old.
A good rule to keep in mind is, if you see more than 20% of your rabbits droppings in the form of caecotrophs, then you are feeding your rabbit too much! It should only be on rare occasions that you see caecotrophs!
An overweight rabbit can not reach its anus and this is bad news because it will not be gaining the nutrients required through the process of copography. They will start to lack certain vitamins such a K and many of the B group.
Coprophagy is required as the food is not entirely digested the first time it passes through the digestive tract, therefore many nutrients are not absorbed. So, just as it leaves the body the rabbit will re-ingest the caecotrophs (the soft droppings) which will then pass through the digestive tract a second time for any remaining goodness to be absorbed.
Finally being passed out as the faecal droppings we are all more familiar with, which are dry, hard and round. People do not very often see coprophagy as it usually takes place at night. The first partly digested caecotrophs resembles a small bunch of soft chocolate coloured grapes covered in a mucous that prevents the stomach acids from damaging the nutrients until it reaches the small intestine.
It is worth mentioning that a kit doesn't produce its own caecotrophs until it is about 3 weeks old, but comsumes it mothers from about 2 weeks old.
A good rule to keep in mind is, if you see more than 20% of your rabbits droppings in the form of caecotrophs, then you are feeding your rabbit too much! It should only be on rare occasions that you see caecotrophs!
Dental Health/ Maloccusion
Your rabbit’s teeth continue to grow at a rate of 2 to 3 mm a week throughout his life. So providing hay/straw, cabbage stumps and other chewing items will allow the teeth to do the job they were designed for, to chew, chew, and chew! Thus preventing uneven wear of the teeth, sore mouth, tongue and abscesses.
Signs of teeth problems include your rabbit losing weight, a reluctance to eat and dribbling. Malocclusion is a condition where the top and bottom teeth do not align and thus cannot be worn down and will continually grow. Often the fur around the mouth, cheeks and chest will be matted and wet because the rabbit is unable to close his mouth. Left untreated the rabbit may even be prevented from eating. The teeth may grow out of control and pierce or irritate the inside of the mouth, cheeks, gums or nostrils, which can result infections, abscesses or sores. |
The condition can be as a result of a knock or accident although more commonly it is hereditary.
Can it be treated? Yes. Is treatment always successful? Not always, it's about 50/50. Treatment can be carried out by trimming the incisors or using a low speed dental drill. However considering the rate at which the teeth grow (a couple of mm a week) it is probably easier to have the insisors removed. The rabbit can cope perfectly well using his prehensile lips to pick up food. Even if the insisors have been removed the molars can still become problematic, first signs of this is spiking. Again, this is treatable but will require a visit to the vet at least once a month which can be costly on a long term basis and very stressful for the rabbit. Alternatively, sadly euthenasia may be the final option.
Yellow teeth can be caused by certain medications (such as tetracycline), flouride, advanced age, hereditary disorder also poor calcification of the teeth (thin enamel) Certain bacteria and fungi in the mouth can also cause yellowed or greenish teeth. Iron in the water may also cause a yellowing/brownish cast to the teeth.
Ulcerated Eye (damaged cornea) & Eye Infections
An ulcerated eye is the result of an injury to the rabbits cornea. The area will appear white and raised, its not a pleasant sight.
Ulcers can be caused by a multitude of things but the most common offender is long sharp straw. As soon as you notice symptoms take a good look around the hutch. What could have caused the injury? Has anything new been added to the dwellings? Are you using a new unprocessed (unwashed, uncut, not dust extracted) brand of straw or hay?
Unfortunately there is not a lot you can do to treat this, its really just a case of letting nature take its course. Overtime blood vessels will extend across the eye to the ulcer bringing increased blood flow in a bid to heal the effected area, so the more blood vessels the better!
However the lesion to the eye can introduce bacteria, which if allowed to spread can cause serious problems. So it is best to take your rabbit to the vets and get some anti bacterial eye ointment as a preventative measure. We recommend TIACIL.
Once healed the rabbit may be left with scar tissue that can cause slight impairment of vision.
Worst case scenario, if the damage is too deep for the eye to be able to heal itself, the eye will have to be removed, but only in severe cases. Operating on small animals does not carry the risk of anaesthetic it once did, so should be a fairly risk free procedure.
Any sign of discharge from the eye should be investigated immediately. Common causes are dust that can clog the tear duct, draughts or allergies, all of which are easily sorted. However if a bacterial infection is suspected then it becomes a little more serious. Bacterial infections left untreated can spread the respiratory system and cause abscesses in the jaw, both of which are fatal. Bacterial infections are treated by antibiotics which can be prescribed by your vet.
Further good reading on eye problems can be found here.
Ulcers can be caused by a multitude of things but the most common offender is long sharp straw. As soon as you notice symptoms take a good look around the hutch. What could have caused the injury? Has anything new been added to the dwellings? Are you using a new unprocessed (unwashed, uncut, not dust extracted) brand of straw or hay?
Unfortunately there is not a lot you can do to treat this, its really just a case of letting nature take its course. Overtime blood vessels will extend across the eye to the ulcer bringing increased blood flow in a bid to heal the effected area, so the more blood vessels the better!
However the lesion to the eye can introduce bacteria, which if allowed to spread can cause serious problems. So it is best to take your rabbit to the vets and get some anti bacterial eye ointment as a preventative measure. We recommend TIACIL.
Once healed the rabbit may be left with scar tissue that can cause slight impairment of vision.
Worst case scenario, if the damage is too deep for the eye to be able to heal itself, the eye will have to be removed, but only in severe cases. Operating on small animals does not carry the risk of anaesthetic it once did, so should be a fairly risk free procedure.
Any sign of discharge from the eye should be investigated immediately. Common causes are dust that can clog the tear duct, draughts or allergies, all of which are easily sorted. However if a bacterial infection is suspected then it becomes a little more serious. Bacterial infections left untreated can spread the respiratory system and cause abscesses in the jaw, both of which are fatal. Bacterial infections are treated by antibiotics which can be prescribed by your vet.
Further good reading on eye problems can be found here.
Ear Canker
This ear ailment is often not immediately noticeable in lop rabbits. It is caused by mites.
Symptoms include consistent shaking of the head, frequent ear scratching and occasionally eye muscle spasms. Thick crusts form and serum oozes with permanent damage to the skin and flesh. Secondary infections can occur which can cause damage to the inner ear and may also attack the central nervous system which can lead to torticollis (wry neck).
The ear can be cleaned out with a mild hydrogen peroxide but do not attempt to remove the crusts as this is extremly painful for the rabbit and it will start to heal naturaly once the treatment is working. Ivermectin is the most effective treatment. Ideally given SC in the same dosage as for fur mites and will require 3 applications at two weekly intervals (treatment must extend over 21 days to cover the mites life cycle)
Symptoms include consistent shaking of the head, frequent ear scratching and occasionally eye muscle spasms. Thick crusts form and serum oozes with permanent damage to the skin and flesh. Secondary infections can occur which can cause damage to the inner ear and may also attack the central nervous system which can lead to torticollis (wry neck).
The ear can be cleaned out with a mild hydrogen peroxide but do not attempt to remove the crusts as this is extremly painful for the rabbit and it will start to heal naturaly once the treatment is working. Ivermectin is the most effective treatment. Ideally given SC in the same dosage as for fur mites and will require 3 applications at two weekly intervals (treatment must extend over 21 days to cover the mites life cycle)
E.Cuniculi
Encephalitozoon cuniculi is a protozoan parasite. Various research suggests between 40-80% of rabbits will test positive on blood tests to measure the body's immune response to the organism. Although that will only show that it has been present at some point.
Infection usually occurs via the spores shed in urine. The life cycle is 3-5 weeks (from ingestion of spore to shedding). A rabbit is only infectious at the time of shedding, although it may shed its entire life if left untreated and re-infects itself. The spores once ingested or inhaled will travel via the bloodstream to the kidney where they reproduce and then shed via the urine to complete their life cycle.
The degree of illness (or lack of) is dependant largely on the body's immune response to these protozoa. Some rabbits may show no symptoms of infection or not until their immune system is compromised by another illness or stress. Evidence can be found post-mortem that some rabbits may only had slight damage and shown no symptoms.
One month post infection the lesions best described as granulomatous (meaning a mass or nodule of chronically inflamed tissue with granulations that is usually associated with an infective process) or more easily described as pitting and scarring can be found readily in and around the tubules of the kidneys. This will result in the rabbit showing symptoms of kidney failure such as increased thirst and urination, thus eventually weight loss. If the organism migrates to the eyes it can result in eye inflammation (uveitis) and cataracts. Pregnant does will infect (via the placenta) unborn kits and granulomas may develop around the lens which will show as white patches in the eye. If the protozoa have travelled to the brain then lesions may occur one month after infection resulting in; fits, tremors, head tilt (torticollis), balance issues, incontinence, loss of function in the legs (ataxia) and involuntary movement of the eyeball (nystagmus).However it may only form cysts in the brain tissue and cause no damage. Pitting and scarring may also be found in the liver and lungs.
There are various Panacur treatments available for ridding rabbits of the protozoa. Note this will not cure damaged organs.
The spores are resistant to normal environmental conditions. Dry spores can survive four weeks at 22°C and several months under cool, damp conditions. They can be destroyed by high pressure steam treatment or by disinfection using Virkon S.
Infection usually occurs via the spores shed in urine. The life cycle is 3-5 weeks (from ingestion of spore to shedding). A rabbit is only infectious at the time of shedding, although it may shed its entire life if left untreated and re-infects itself. The spores once ingested or inhaled will travel via the bloodstream to the kidney where they reproduce and then shed via the urine to complete their life cycle.
The degree of illness (or lack of) is dependant largely on the body's immune response to these protozoa. Some rabbits may show no symptoms of infection or not until their immune system is compromised by another illness or stress. Evidence can be found post-mortem that some rabbits may only had slight damage and shown no symptoms.
One month post infection the lesions best described as granulomatous (meaning a mass or nodule of chronically inflamed tissue with granulations that is usually associated with an infective process) or more easily described as pitting and scarring can be found readily in and around the tubules of the kidneys. This will result in the rabbit showing symptoms of kidney failure such as increased thirst and urination, thus eventually weight loss. If the organism migrates to the eyes it can result in eye inflammation (uveitis) and cataracts. Pregnant does will infect (via the placenta) unborn kits and granulomas may develop around the lens which will show as white patches in the eye. If the protozoa have travelled to the brain then lesions may occur one month after infection resulting in; fits, tremors, head tilt (torticollis), balance issues, incontinence, loss of function in the legs (ataxia) and involuntary movement of the eyeball (nystagmus).However it may only form cysts in the brain tissue and cause no damage. Pitting and scarring may also be found in the liver and lungs.
There are various Panacur treatments available for ridding rabbits of the protozoa. Note this will not cure damaged organs.
The spores are resistant to normal environmental conditions. Dry spores can survive four weeks at 22°C and several months under cool, damp conditions. They can be destroyed by high pressure steam treatment or by disinfection using Virkon S.
Fleas
Gathering mainly around the head and neck fleas will cause discomfort and irritation to your rabbit by biting and sucking its blood. Fleas can easily be eradicated by the use of powders from your vet or pet shop. However the main danger is any eggs that the fleas may have laid in the bedding or hutch. All bedding must be removed and the hutch should be thoroughly scrubbed with an animal friendly disinfectant cleaner or the whole cycle could start again in a matter of a few days. Fleas must be dealt with swiftly as with them carries the risk of myxomatosis, which will be fatal if your rabbit is not vaccinated.
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Flesh Wounds
Flesh wounds should be bathed in a mild antiseptic. Deeper wounds should looked at by your vet. New research also indicates that the use of honey on wounds speeds up the healing process and acts as a good barrier.
Flystrike
The problem of flystrike is caused either by diorreah or failure of the rabbit to consume its caecotrophs. The faeces stick to the skin and fur around the tail and anus. This then encourages flies to lay their eggs. Once hatched, the maggots will eat in to the flesh. Longer furred rabbits are mostly susceptible, as many keepers fail to make a regular check. In the summer this should be done on a daily basis.
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Lice and Ear Mites
There are over 3000 different species of lice, each having their own unique way of attaching themselves to their host. The mite has a life cycle of about 3 weeks. A louse egg (nit) attaches to your rabbit’s fur with its saliva which makes them difficult to remove. Lice feed on your rabbit’s skin debris, secretions and blood. The infestation is commonly referred to as ‘walking dandruff’. The rabbit will suffer skin irritation, usually noticed along the shoulder blades in a V shape. They may have some hair loss, dandruff (scales), itching and sometimes a thickening of the skin. Rabbits can pick up mites from many places but they aren’t usually a problem. It is once the rabbit becomes run down that the mites get the upper hand. It is recommended to treat twice yearly as a preventative measure. Spring and autumn being the suggested times. Hutches will need to be completely sanitised to remove any mites/eggs. The most common treatment for mite in the UK is Ivermectin. Selamectin has proved more popular and effective overseas but as of yet is not readily available here. Always follow the instructions carefully and ensure you are administering the correct dosage. Under no circumstances use products meant for cats and dogs. There are chemicals that are toxic and carcinogenic that will cause terrible painful deaths Products that contain Ivermectin and are administered as drops on the back of the neck are Xeno 450 or Ivermectin 1% these can obtained from your vet or online.
Scanning
The REW (Red Eyed White) rabbit is an albino. The eyes are red because there is no pigmentation to the iris, so the red you see are the blood vessels at the back of the eye (retina). The albino eye is over sensitive to light because it can not block it. In bright light situations too much light gets in and it gives a bleached and blurry effect to the vision. This can also cause pain. When a REW is ‘scanning’ it is believed that the rabbit is attempting to ascertain which objects are closer and which further away, as the closer object(s) will appear to be moving at a faster rate. The act of scanning is not seen in all REW rabbits, but is perfectly normal and will have been happening the rabbit’s entire life.
Quote ‘some rabbits have an odd behaviour called scanning. It seems to be most prevalent in albino rabbits, but no one knows why. It may be an exaggerated motion associated with the normal nystagmus of the eyes.
Nystagmus is the natural, microscopic movement that every vertebrate eye makes constantly--including ours! It's what makes vision possible. As our eyes microscopically change the visual field at this tiny level, constantly (we are not aware of it, and you can't see or feel it), the eye's photoreceptors are constantly stimulated by the ever-changing light hitting them. This is why we can see. Without nystagmus, we would not be able to see.
Some people have suggested that albino rabbit "scanning" (the side to side movement of the head you're seeing) is an "outgrowth" of normal nystagmus--but no one knows for sure.
The bottom line is that it's a genetic trait that is not harmful, and it's nothing to worry about ‘.
Quote ‘some rabbits have an odd behaviour called scanning. It seems to be most prevalent in albino rabbits, but no one knows why. It may be an exaggerated motion associated with the normal nystagmus of the eyes.
Nystagmus is the natural, microscopic movement that every vertebrate eye makes constantly--including ours! It's what makes vision possible. As our eyes microscopically change the visual field at this tiny level, constantly (we are not aware of it, and you can't see or feel it), the eye's photoreceptors are constantly stimulated by the ever-changing light hitting them. This is why we can see. Without nystagmus, we would not be able to see.
Some people have suggested that albino rabbit "scanning" (the side to side movement of the head you're seeing) is an "outgrowth" of normal nystagmus--but no one knows for sure.
The bottom line is that it's a genetic trait that is not harmful, and it's nothing to worry about ‘.
Snuffles
'Snuffles' is a description that actually covers a multitude of ailments. The main symptoms are runny nose, eyes and related complaints such as sneezing. It is highly contagious. The main infections associated with snuffles are Pastuerella, Bordatella and Staphylococcus. A visit to the vets is required as left untreated death could result.
Rabbits have a small chest cavity. They breathe through their nose and so it must be noted that it is very serious if a rabbit must resort to mouth breathing. Rabbits are in trouble if they lose 20% function of their lungs. By comparison a human can cope with up to 70% loss of function.
Rabbits have a small chest cavity. They breathe through their nose and so it must be noted that it is very serious if a rabbit must resort to mouth breathing. Rabbits are in trouble if they lose 20% function of their lungs. By comparison a human can cope with up to 70% loss of function.
Sore Hocks
Sore hocks can be caused by unhygienic living conditions or extended periods of time on hard surfaces or wire. Again prevention is better than cure, ensure that the rabbits bedding is thickly spread across the floor of the cage and is kept clean and dry by being changed regularly, its is unadvisable to keep your rabbits on wire in the first instance. In the first intance it can be treted with udder cream. If the condition is advanced then it can be treated with anti-biotics from your vet.
Stress (causes real and perceived)
Warning, the dangers of fireworks!
Fear can cause fatal heart attacks and diarrhoea in small animals.
No doubt many people and their rabbits are experiencing this dreaded time of the year already (Why can't it be held just on the one day only and not for several weeks before and after?)
In fact anyone who has a pet or livestock will be in the same boat. For dogs there are the desensitising CD's and pheromones (DAP's) that if used well in advance can prove useful. For some unfortunate dogs and cats the last resort is a sedative. However for the small animal owner it is a different story.
If you have a house rabbit this is less likely to be of concern, but for rabbits and guinea pigs that are normally housed outside this is not so easy to deal with.
If you have just a few pets our best advice is to bring them indoors during this time. Keep them secure in a travel box or similar packed with straw, so they can burrow in to it to feel safer. Providing sounds from a radio or television and covering their hideout with a thick blanket will also help. Remember it's not just the sound but the sudden explosion of bright lights that will scare them.
If your animals are housed in a shed then the best option is to keep the light and a radio turned on. Blocking windows with a black plastic sheet or blanket may help. For outdoor rabbits we suggest you cover the hutches with a thick blanket or duvet and tarpaulin if wet.
Warning, hot weather kills!
So what happens when we get hot? We remove a layer or two of clothing, drink more water and try to find some shade. Please remember your rabbit has a fur coat on all the time. Ten minutes in full sun can cause heat stroke and lead to death. Be aware that temperatures above 80 degrees will cause a rabbit to feel discomfort.
Symptoms of heat stroke include the rabbit lying stretched out with his head right back and mouth open. This is serious and requires immediate attention. Rabbits don’t sweat or pant to cool. Their ears are heat exchangers (you may notice the veins are far more visible in warm weather) and dissipate heat.
Emergency treatment requires cooling the rabbit by wrapping him in a damp towel or dampening his body and ears with cool water (not too cold or he’ll suffer shock). If the rabbit is acting strangely such as running wildly around his hutch in very warm weather he may very well be suffering from heat stroke, as the brain has over heated.
Prevention is better than cure.
Always have plenty of fresh water available (even extra bottles on the cage). Refresh the water frequently as rabbits will not drink warm/hot water and will quickly dehydrate. Some put ice cubes in water bowls. You can place a fridge chilled bottle of water in the cage or a tile for your rabbit to lie on.
Use a reflective sheet/tarpaulin on the hutch roof. Or a dampened white towel and drape it over the door(s). Be aware that the sun changes position during the day. Use fans in sheds but not pointing directly at the rabbit rather above or below to circulate the air. Place frozen bottles of water in front of the fan to cool the ambient temperature.
Make sure your rabbit is groomed to remove excess hair and a gentle light mist of water is appreciated by many rabbits.
Fear can cause fatal heart attacks and diarrhoea in small animals.
No doubt many people and their rabbits are experiencing this dreaded time of the year already (Why can't it be held just on the one day only and not for several weeks before and after?)
In fact anyone who has a pet or livestock will be in the same boat. For dogs there are the desensitising CD's and pheromones (DAP's) that if used well in advance can prove useful. For some unfortunate dogs and cats the last resort is a sedative. However for the small animal owner it is a different story.
If you have a house rabbit this is less likely to be of concern, but for rabbits and guinea pigs that are normally housed outside this is not so easy to deal with.
If you have just a few pets our best advice is to bring them indoors during this time. Keep them secure in a travel box or similar packed with straw, so they can burrow in to it to feel safer. Providing sounds from a radio or television and covering their hideout with a thick blanket will also help. Remember it's not just the sound but the sudden explosion of bright lights that will scare them.
If your animals are housed in a shed then the best option is to keep the light and a radio turned on. Blocking windows with a black plastic sheet or blanket may help. For outdoor rabbits we suggest you cover the hutches with a thick blanket or duvet and tarpaulin if wet.
Warning, hot weather kills!
So what happens when we get hot? We remove a layer or two of clothing, drink more water and try to find some shade. Please remember your rabbit has a fur coat on all the time. Ten minutes in full sun can cause heat stroke and lead to death. Be aware that temperatures above 80 degrees will cause a rabbit to feel discomfort.
Symptoms of heat stroke include the rabbit lying stretched out with his head right back and mouth open. This is serious and requires immediate attention. Rabbits don’t sweat or pant to cool. Their ears are heat exchangers (you may notice the veins are far more visible in warm weather) and dissipate heat.
Emergency treatment requires cooling the rabbit by wrapping him in a damp towel or dampening his body and ears with cool water (not too cold or he’ll suffer shock). If the rabbit is acting strangely such as running wildly around his hutch in very warm weather he may very well be suffering from heat stroke, as the brain has over heated.
Prevention is better than cure.
Always have plenty of fresh water available (even extra bottles on the cage). Refresh the water frequently as rabbits will not drink warm/hot water and will quickly dehydrate. Some put ice cubes in water bowls. You can place a fridge chilled bottle of water in the cage or a tile for your rabbit to lie on.
Use a reflective sheet/tarpaulin on the hutch roof. Or a dampened white towel and drape it over the door(s). Be aware that the sun changes position during the day. Use fans in sheds but not pointing directly at the rabbit rather above or below to circulate the air. Place frozen bottles of water in front of the fan to cool the ambient temperature.
Make sure your rabbit is groomed to remove excess hair and a gentle light mist of water is appreciated by many rabbits.
Syphilis/ Vent Disease/ Spirochetosis
Yes rabbits can get STD's too! Symptoms of this venereal disease include blisters, lesions, and/or scabs on the genitals and anus. This is often spread to mouth, lips, nose, eyelids, ears, and feet when the rabbit grooms himself. Transmission of syphilis occurs through mating and is passed from a mother to her young at birth.
Treatment of antibiotic injection should be sought from your vet.
Treatment of antibiotic injection should be sought from your vet.
Ticks
Ticks are blood-feeding parasites that can be transferred to your rabbit when put out to graze. They are found in tall grasses and shrubs. Physical contact is the only method of transportation for ticks.
Ticks will not usually require treatment as after a couple of days when they are 'full' they will drop off. It is best to avoid removing the tick yourself as you are likely to rip the tick in half leaving its head still attached to your rabbit’s skin. However if it is causing your rabbit real discomfort and you feel you have to remove it go armed with a magnifying glass and a pair of tweezers and be sure to remove the head! |
Urine
People often ask why a rabbits urine is sometimes red in colour and the most common cause is from the food they eat, sometimes it may indicate too much protein in their diet. Cloudy/chalky urine is a sign of too much calcium. So long as the rabbit looks healthy and is not straining or unable to urinate then don't worry. Adjust the diet if there is too much calcium present all the time (sources include spinach, dandelion etc).
Notes of interest
Rabbits have three pairs of scent glands used in scent-marking behaviour. There are chin, anal and inguinal glands. The size of the glands and the amount of marking behaviour is related to the level of sexual activity of each intact rabbit. Does also scent mark their kits.
Sometimes you may notice a smell from your rabbit, it might be worth checking the anal glands as sometimes a brownish waxy substance can build up which can easily be removed with a cotton bud and some warm water or vaseline.
Sometimes you may notice a smell from your rabbit, it might be worth checking the anal glands as sometimes a brownish waxy substance can build up which can easily be removed with a cotton bud and some warm water or vaseline.